Why does a supplier say yes, and then another MOQ appears at order time?

Where the client started

Garment quotes were in and the pre-sale was planned. Only at color confirmation did it surface that custom-dyeing the specified nylon interlock required far more fabric than 540 garments consume. The factory's fix — “buy the extra fabric and keep it for later” — meant locking cash into a color the market hadn't validated yet.

SEAMDANCE's read

This isn't solved by squeezing the dye house's minimum. Whether leftover fabric is genuinely reusable depends on shade drift, storage, future style consumption and how customers respond to the color. We built three comparable routes: use a close stock shade; share one dye lot across the three styles plus an added bike short with steadier sell-through; or keep the custom color and assign part of the fabric to a next-season style that could be confirmed early.

The real trade-offs

Stock color was fastest but visibly off the brand. Adding shorts raised fabric utilization but added an SKU. Carrying fabric across seasons kept the color but meant accepting storage and future lot-difference management. The client chose one shared dye lot across the three original styles — unifying bra lining, binding and shell into one color system — and dropped one low-priority size-color combination.

Color took two lab dips: the first pulled yellow in daylight, the second landed. Before bulk dyeing we required the approved dip and lot number to be kept on record, so a reorder never turns into hunting for “roughly the same green” from a screen value.

Reference outcome

No pile of purposeless leftover fabric, no last-minute settling for an off-brand stock shade — and a client who now reads the relationship between garment quantity, dye quantity and SKU planning before committing, not after.